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THE BOATHOUSE,
636 Thames St., Newport (846-7700).Admiration of superior seafaring usually signals pride in the seafood served, so we felt in good hands when we walked into The Boathouse. Nautical bric-a-brac abounds, but the menu is wide-ranging, with plenty of burgers, salads, and pricey ($5.95-$10) sandwiches. The seafood sampler ($5.95) was as fresh and briny as the ocean intended, and the Caribbean jerk chicken ($12.95) was thick, pleasantly pink, and peppery hot from the Jamaican marinade. Our one disappointment was the only dessert made in the kitchen. The apple cobbler ($2.50) had a taste that was all-too-similar to a canned version, but who's perfect? Full review.
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